A BLACK WOMAN IN GHANA
I recently took a solo trip to Accra, Ghana for the American holiday known as Thanksgiving. It was my second time visiting Africa and my first time visiting Ghana. I spent five (5) days attempting to immerse myself into African culture and learn as much history as I could in my short time there. While Ghana was an extraordinary experience for me, it also stirred up mixed feelings about my origin story and identity. I felt simultaneously connected and disconnected to their rich culture. As a Black American, I acknowledge that I am more than likely a descendent of slavery but at the same time, I do not really know the exact origins of my ancestry. However, there was much to see and learn. Here are a few short reflections I have post-trip:
#1 It is okay to slow down.
If I was not aware that time is a construct, I was fully aware once I arrived in Ghana. Most things move at a slower pace and exercising patience is key. Somehow Ghanaians finesse efficiency by moving slower yet getting the job done. While it was an adjustment, it only took a couple of days for me to admire the slower pace and ease of my day.
#2 You do not need to be loud to be understood.
The Ghanaians that I interacted with spoke with the softest of voices. I know you are thinking it is my hearing but it is not. I often had a hard time hearing them when they spoke. I believe many of the locals thought I was having issues understanding their accent. But it was not a language barrier, but more so a volume barrier. As someone with a soft-er voice, I am not used to being around people who speak more quietly than I do. Despite their softer tone, they managed to express exactly how they felt and get their point across when needed.
#3 Jollof by another name.
There is a great debate between which country makes the best Jollof Rice—Ghana or Nigeria? To no one’s surprise, Ghanaians believe their Jollof Rice is superior. I am not a food critic so I will not provide an in-depth comparison here. But the Ghanian Jollof Rice was was quite tasty. The comparison between Nigerian Jollof Rice and Ghanaian Jollof Rice is not what struck me. Ironically, it was the similarity between Ghanian Jollof Rice and the Creole dish, Jamabalaya. The taste, the texture, and the consistency of Ghanian Jollof Rice reminds me of my mom’s Jambalaya rice. It was a subtle reminder that we are a part of our diaspora and like our people, our foods are connected.
#4 Escaping racial microaggressions.
The one thing I did not worry about during my trip was racism and racial microaggressions. Being a Black woman in a city—and a whole country—where everyone is highly melanated leveled the playing field. While it was apparent that I was not Ghanian or African for that matter, I was still treated with same-ness. My race did not matter nor was it a factor in my day-to-day experience or daily decision making. To be honest, that felt nice.
#5 Nothing majestic about a slave castle.
I booked an all-day “Cape Coast Tour” where I visited Elmina Castle and Cape Coast Castle. When you hear or see the term “castle” you may think of a majestic building where magic happens à la Magic Kingdom. These castles are unlike the castles I’ve come to know from fairtyales. These castles are known as “slave castles” because they housed hundreds of African slaves in their dungeons (also referred to as slave dungeons). During our tour, we learned about the violence against slaves, women, in particular, endured during their time in the dungeons. We also saw their destitute living spaces and remnants of the slave dungeons. We also learned about the irony of the castles. For example, the church was often placed above the slave dungeons yet slaves were not allowed to attend church. Overall, it was an emotional experience being there and seeing the origins of the slave trade. I was never taught about the experience of African salves before they arrived to America. Thankfully, I was able to gain a deeper perspective of the Transatlantic Slave Trade.
#6 Humidity.
The humidity in Ghana is on another level. I’ve been to Florida, Texas, and the Caribbean. Their humidity is child’s play compared to what I experienced in Accra and along the coast. During my time there, the average temperature was 86 degrees with about 80% humidity. Also, many buildings and ride-share/taxis did not have air conditioning. Thank goodness for Dri-fit and moisture wicking clothes.
#7 Driving.
Saying the way Ghanians drive is “wild” would not be doing the experience justice. They drive on the same side of the road as folks do in the U.S. and follow the same traffic rules (based on what I observed). However, there is less signage and traffic signals in Accra than what I am accustomed to in the U.S. The way the locals navigate traffic without getting into an auto accident or injuring a pedestrian is impressive. Did my heart skip a few beats while in the car? Yes. Did I make it to my destination in a timely manner and safely? Yes.
#8 Ad free.
It’s a small thing but I noticed there were not many billboards in Accra. The only time I recall seeing an ad is when I watched African TV in my hotel. It was nice to enjoy media for the sake of enjoying media. This also allowed me to focus on all the art that adorned the walls throughout the city and in many of their buildings.
#9 Body neutrality.
There was not an abundance of “sexy images” in Accra. In the U.S. there is an abundance of hypersexualized imagery and/or imagery that promotes certain body types and features over others. However, in Accra, there was a diversity of bodies and an apparent appreciation of bodies in their natural form. In particular, you can find women of all bodies with all different types of hairstyles in their media and it is celebrated. Conventional standards of beauty I’ve come to know and understand in the U.S. seemed to be nonexistent in Accra.
#10 We are all connected.
I was constantly reminded throughout my trip that we are all connected. From our history, food, language and gestures, and color of our skin—we share a common bond. There is more that connects us than what divides us.
Good to Know Info
If you are thinking of traveling to Ghana, here are my top three (3) tips:
#1 Get vaccinated and get vaccinated early. You may also want to budget for the cost of vaccinations (depending on insurance/cost of health care in your area).
#2 If you are reading this and you are from the U.S., exercise your economic privilege. The dollar goes a long way in Ghana. Tip well. Pay full price for their services.
#3 Get the damn Visa. Some day I’ll share my Visa experience but for now, get your visa before you leave and get it early. Trust me.
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Until next time,
Your favorite Chief Diversity Officer,
Dr. B.
